
Tsumago-juku
Step Back to Edo-Period Japan
Tsumago-juku was the 42nd of 69 post towns along the Nakasendo, one of the five major routes connecting Edo (Tokyo) with Kyoto during the Edo period (1603-1868). The Nakasendo ('road through the mountains') was the inland alternative to the coastal Tokaido road, passing through the Kiso Valley's dramatic mountain scenery. Tsumago served travelers with lodging, food, and rest facilities, including two honjin (inns for nobility) and one waki-honjin (sub-honjin).
After the Meiji Restoration and the arrival of railways, Tsumago declined as travelers abandoned the mountain trail. By the 1960s, many historic post towns had been modernized or demolished. However, Tsumago residents made a pioneering decision to preserve their town, establishing conservation regulations in 1968 that prohibited selling, renting, or demolishing traditional buildings. They also banned television antennas, overhead wires, and modern signage to maintain the Edo-period atmosphere.
Tsumago became Japan's first preserved post town and inspired a nationwide machiya (traditional townhouse) preservation movement. In 1976, it was designated as a Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. The town remains a living community where residents maintain traditional architecture and lifestyles. Walking Tsumago's main street, especially in early morning or evening, offers one of Japan's most authentic experiences of Edo-period travel culture.

Key Highlights
- Best-preserved Edo-period post town in Japan
- Historic Nakasendo trail segment to Magome (8km hike)
- Traditional wooden buildings with no overhead wires
- Waki-honjin and Honjin museums (historical inns)
- Mountain valley setting with rice fields and forests
- Living community maintaining 17th-century atmosphere
Access Information
Location
Tsumago, Nagiso, Kiso District, Nagano 399-5302, Japan
Nearest Stations
- • Nagiso Station (JR Chuo Line)
Opening Hours
Town: 24 hours | Museums: 9:00-17:00 | Closed Dec 29-Jan 1
Admission Fee
Town: Free | Waki-honjin Museum: ¥600 | Honjin: ¥300 | Combined ticket: ¥700
How to Get There
From Nagoya
JR Limited Express Shinano to Nagiso Station, then bus (10 min) or taxi
1 hour 20 minutes
From Tokyo
JR Chuo Line Limited Express to Nagiso Station, then bus or taxi
3.5 hours
From Kyoto
JR Limited Express to Nagoya, transfer to Nagiso Station
2.5 hours
Tips & Visiting Guide
Make the most of your visit with these helpful tips and guidelines.
Visit Early Morning or Stay Overnight
Tsumago is magical in early morning (6:00-9:00 AM) before day-trippers arrive, when mist fills the valley and locals open their shops. Consider staying at a minshuku (family inn, ¥8,000-12,000 with meals) to experience the town without crowds and see it at its most atmospheric.
Hike the Nakasendo to Magome
The 8km (2-3 hours) trail between Tsumago and Magome is the most scenic preserved section of the historic Nakasendo. The well-maintained path passes through forests, waterfalls, and rural scenery. Most people hike Magome→Tsumago (downhill). Luggage forwarding service available (¥500-1,000 per bag).
Photography Tips
No overhead wires, cars restricted from main street (9:00-16:00), making photography easy. Best shots: main street looking uphill, Waki-honjin facade, waterwheel, and rice fields with mountains. Early morning mist and autumn colors are spectacular. Respect 'No Photography' signs at private homes.
Try Local Soba and Gohei-mochi
The Kiso Valley is famous for soba (buckwheat noodles). Try handmade soba at local restaurants (¥800-1,500). Gohei-mochi (grilled rice cakes with sweet miso sauce) is the regional snack sold at shops along the street. Local sake and chestnuts are also specialties.
Visit the Honjin and Waki-honjin Museums
The restored Waki-honjin (sub-inn) is a beautiful example of Edo-period architecture with tatami rooms, artifacts, and historical displays. The Honjin ruins and museum show how elite travelers stayed. The combined ticket (¥700) is worthwhile for understanding post town culture.
Explore Beyond the Main Street
Walk the side paths, visit the small shrines, explore the hillside neighborhoods, and follow the stream. The town is compact (500m main street) but the surrounding area offers additional scenery. The cemetery and temple on the hill provide good overview perspectives.
Luggage Storage and Services
Coin lockers at Nagiso Station (¥300-500). Tsumago Tourist Information Office near the town entrance stores luggage (¥500) and arranges forwarding to Magome or next accommodation. Essential for hikers. English maps and information available.
Seasonal Considerations
Spring: mountain flowers. Summer: festivals, lush greenery (can be hot). Autumn (Nov): spectacular foliage, most crowded. Winter: snow transforms the town, very quiet, some shops closed. Each season offers unique beauty, but autumn is peak season - book accommodations months ahead.
FAQ
How long should I spend in Tsumago?
Half a day allows comfortable exploration of the main street and surroundings. Full day if hiking to Magome. Overnight stays offer magical early morning atmosphere without crowds.
Should I hike between Tsumago and Magome?
The 8km trail takes 2-3 hours through forests and farmland. It's moderately easy and scenic. Luggage forwarding service available. Most hike Magome to Tsumago (mostly downhill).
Are cars allowed in the town?
No cars during daytime hours (10 AM - 4 PM) on the main historical street. This preserves the Edo period atmosphere. Parking available at town entrances.
Can I stay in a traditional inn?
Yes, several minshuku and ryokan offer traditional accommodation with local meals. Book in advance, especially on weekends. Staying overnight provides an authentic experience.
What's the difference from Magome?
Tsumago is better preserved with stricter regulations, creating more authentic atmosphere. Magome has more shops and restaurants but feels slightly more commercial. Both are worth visiting.
Are there English signs?
Basic English signage exists for navigation. Historical explanations are mostly in Japanese. Tourist information center near the parking area has English pamphlets and maps.
What food specialties are available?
Try gohei-mochi (grilled rice cakes with walnut miso), local soba, and mountain vegetables. Several traditional restaurants and cafes line the main street. Prices are reasonable.
Is it very touristy?
Popular with both domestic and international tourists, especially on weekends. Early morning and late afternoon are quieter. Despite tourism, authenticity is well-maintained.
What's the best photo spot?
The main street view with traditional buildings and mountains in background. The restored Wakihonjin and Honjin buildings. Early morning light creates best photography conditions.
How do I get there?
From Nagoya, take JR to Nagiso Station, then bus to Tsumago (1.5 hours total). From Tokyo, go via Nagoya or Matsumoto. Limited direct highway buses available.
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